What size generator do you need to run a compressor? The size of the generator you use will depend on the specific size and power capabilities. First, Examine the voltage and amperage requirements to operate to determine the working voltage of a compressor. Then Multiply this value by three as it requires upwards of 3 times the power to start.

Because there is such a wide range of air compressors with varying power requirements, the size generator you need will depend on the individual compressor you have. This article will break down the guidelines you should follow in selecting a generator that will power your compressor without choosing too big!

Choosing The Right Size Generator to Run a Compressor

With many options in compressor power outputs, you’ll first need to identify the wattage required to run and start a compressor. These values will then determine how much power is needed from a generator. Compressors typically measure their power output with different levels of horsepower, ranging from 0.5 – 6.5 HP.

The right size generator is the number of watts that slightly exceeds the starting wattage required to turn on and run your compressor. There is no set size for every generator, and the section below will show you how to calculate which will work best for your compressor.

Converting Air Compressor Metrics to Wattage

Because generators are typically characterized by wattage, you will need to determine these values for the air compressor to determine what size and power output you will need.

Most electric air compressors will stay under 2 HP, which operates with 110-120V outlets commonly found in a home. For larger compressors that run on over 2 HP, the outlet will need 220-234V outlets. This voltage impacts the size generator that will be required, with larger horsepower motors requiring larger generators.

After determining the voltage of your compressor, find the amperage. These details should be provided by the manufacturer and will be necessary for calculating the overall wattage. Compressors will often detail both their running wattage and starting wattage for you, but wattage can be easily calculated.

To calculate the wattage of your air compressor, you will need to:

Find the voltage and amperages of the air compressor: You can find these individual values in the manual or detailed by the manufacturer.

Multiply voltage by amperages to calculate running wattage: Wattage is the product of amperage (how strong an electrical current is) and volts (electrical potential that sends a certain amount of force through the circuit). This combination results in your overall electrical power or wattage.

Take running wattage and multiple by 3 to determine starting wattage: Motors need a surge of power to start, and this is often 3x the amount of power that it will need while on and running.

Use a generator that provides wattage greater than starting wattage: Make sure the generator can handle the starting wattage of the compressor so it can successfully start.

Your air compressor instructions should tell you the required starting and running wattages required to run the compressor. If those details are not noted, you can use the steps mentioned above. At least three to five times the amount of wattage is required to start a compressor as is needed to run it. Each compressor will be different, so make sure you note these individual differences.

Generator Wattage Requirements

Generators will provide power for starting watts for a few seconds, while a steady flow of power will meet running wattage requirements while using your compressor. Compressors rely on capacitor start induction motors, which require 3 to 4.5 times the amount of torque during the starting phase.

The generator you choose will need to exceed the starting wattage value of the air compressor to ensure it will start and run. Exceeding the starting wattage will keep the generator in the best shape. If you plan to run multiple tools or appliances simultaneously from the generator, you will need to consider these additional wattage values.

Larger generators are more efficient in providing power to appliances and units that require 240 volts while still providing power to 120 volts, typically by flipping a switch to change circuits. However, most small generators are more effective for 120V use and will be sufficient for most household compressor needs.

Size Options for Generators and Compressors

The specifics of the size generator needed will depend on the power provided by the air compressor. We have pulled together various air compressor variations and the corresponding generator required to start and run it. Unless you need a generator for a wide range of machinery, finding one similar in wattage requirements will save space and money.

While horsepower is not the only important metric used in selecting an air compressor, it is an important measurement of how powerful the machine is and how well it can refill a compressor tank to continue providing air. In addition, the amount of horsepower is necessary to determine how much wattage is required from a generator to start the appliance.

Comparing the HP of Compressors

We will compare different HP compressors and provide both their starting and running wattages. You should choose a generator that slightly exceeds the starting wattage value:

½ HP Air Compressor: One of the smallest air compressors, you will need 2000 starting watts and 1000 running watts. This is suitable for most renovations and home improvements, as well as crafting.

1 HP Air Compressor: 4500 watts must start this compressor, and 1500 watts are needed for running. 1 HP compressors are also solid options for home improvement projects and hobbies.

1-½ HP Air Compressor: 6000 watts for starting wattage and 2200 watts for running wattage. Driving more power than the former will allow for more powerful projects.  

2 HP Air Compressor: 7770 watts for starting wattage and 2800 for running wattage. Contractors may benefit from the versatility offered by a higher-powered compressor.

We note the ½ to 2 HP air compressors because these are the power values of those most frequently sold on the consumer retail market. The trend for most of the compressors shows the 3x power needed to start a compressor versus run it off of a generator. Therefore, you will need to calculate the running wattage of the larger compressor and multiply it by 3!

Don’t Skimp on the Generator

It is recommended that you use a generator that can accommodate slightly more watts than your compressor requires. This should be followed for multiple reasons:

Play it safe: If the calculations are slightly off or the compressor reaches the generator’s capacity, you don’t want to lose power because the generator is fully engaged or exceeds wattage levels.

Versatility: To operate multiple appliances simultaneously or have the ability to power bigger machines, purchasing a more powerful generator will prevent you from needing to buy an additional one for more power.

The life span of the generator: If the generator is running at full capacity all the time, this puts more stress on the device and could result in shorter working life. To get the most out of your generator, keep the power output levels below the maximum limits.

Generators will generally offer their rated power versus their maximum power, as generators should not be run at the maximum output for more than 30 minutes at a time. Rated power is the amount of power that a device can deliver consistently and under normal working conditions.

Generator sizes will vary depending on residential or industrial use. They are typically measured in kilowatts (1 kW = 1000 watts). Residential generators can be as powerful as 50kW to power an entire house, while industrial generators offer significantly more power options, upwards of 3 megawatts! Most compressors will stay under 10,000 watts with a medium-sized generator.

Why Use A Generator to Run a Compressor?

Generators are used to provide a power source when no electrical outlets are available or offer additional power when greater power needs must be met. There are multiple reasons why you should look into a generator to run a compressor:

Remote or outdoor work: Often brought to job sites or areas far from your house, you can work on any compressor project if you have a generator to supply power nearby. If the generator is large, it may need to be transported on a cart.

Power outage: In the event of a power outage, a generator will allow you to keep working with a compressor regardless of electrical power source status. This is often used for homes in the event of power outages or emergencies.

Greater power requirements: If you need more wattage than your electrical system can provide, a large generator can give you the additional power.

Standby and Portable Generators

Generators come in two varieties, standby and portable.

Standby generators are typically designed to serve as backups for a home if you need more power during an outage. They are automatically hooked up and will provide power if your main circuits fail to do so.

A portable generator is powered by gas or propane and can be taken anywhere for use. The level of portability will depend on its size. These are necessary when electrical power is not accessible, and, in most cases, you will be using a portable generator to power your compressor. These compressors are used for both residential projects and industrial job sites.

The alternative to using a generator to run a compressor is to opt for a gas-powered air compressor. This will eliminate the entire need for electricity and provide you with power from a gas-powered engine instead. You would need to compare the cost and feasibility of using a gas device versus traditional electric models.

Safely Running a Generator with a Compressor

Any gas-powered or electrical device should be operated safely to yield desired results for power and prevent any accidents or injuries. Safety precautions should be taken with each device, especially when used in conjunction with one another. More risks are presented when you operate electrically powered tools and gas-powered engines simultaneously.

When using an air compressor, these are the necessary precautions and risks you should be aware of:

Electrical shocks: Make sure the compressor is properly plugged in, or there could be the risk of electrocution. You may also damage the equipment when these electrical problems occur. Make sure you properly follow manufacturer guidelines for plugging into a generator.

High-pressure air: When in contact with the body, a great injury may occur. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment when operating.

Dispelled debris: Working with highly pressurized air leads to the opportunity for flying debris and objects. Be mindful of where compressed air is directed, especially concerning nearby people and surroundings.

Noise: Air compressors are very loud, so make sure you wear ear protection. This, coupled with a generator’s noise, can be very unpleasant and cause hearing loss.

It would be best to be mindful of these risks, especially when you add a generator into the mix. This is because you add another layer of danger when operating a gas-powered machine. The two can be used very safely together, but you must take precautions.

Generator Safety

To use a generator safely, you should always:

Work outside: Because portable generators are gas-powered, they emit harmful chemicals and gases, including carbon monoxide (CO). Inhaling these fumes can be very dangerous, leading to sickness (and, in severe cases, death). In addition, indoor areas do not ventilate well and could be contaminated without knowledge as CO is odorless.

Keep the generator dry: As you will be attaching electrical devices, you could risk electrocution or shock if the generator is wet. Therefore, you should properly dry the generator and not use it in rainy conditions.

Check fuel requirements: Fuel levels and composition may vary from generator to generator. Make sure you read the instructions and requirements fully before putting fuel into the generator and starting it.

Refuel while off: Make sure you turn the generator off before you put more fuel in. Vapors from the gas could contact heat or electricity and lead to a fire or explosion.

Use acceptable extension cords: If you need to use an extension cord from the compressor to the generator, you will need to make sure it is compatible with the wattages. Longer extension cords will weaken the current and typically only work with lower wattages. Please make sure they are compliant not cause damage to either device.

While the combination of safety guidelines you should follow for using a compressor and a generator is somewhat lengthy, they must remember for proper use. Most of these rules apply to electronic and gas-powered devices, making them easier to follow. However, reviewing safety guidelines before use is recommended.

When working with powerful equipment such as these, be sure to wear protective clothing and some form of ear protection. Especially if exposed to these sounds for extended periods of time, you could experience issues related to hearing loss. In addition, if using a loud generator and compressor, these increased sound levels can be even more severe.

Sizing a Generator For Your Compressor

There is no single answer for exactly what size generator that will work with your compressor.

Fortunately, the simple wattage calculation of volts x amperages will give you all the necessary information you need to find a properly sized generator. You can find these electricity measurements on the air compressor and use them to make your generator purchase.

These are the top things to remember when choosing a generator for your compressor:

Always account for starting wattage: You will need to have at least 3x the amount of wattage to account for a surge in power needed to start the compressor. After that, it will run at its running wattage, which is much lower.

Go for more wattage than you’ll need: You should always err on the side of caution and choose a generator that offers slightly more wattage than the compressor requires. This will ensure proper starting and function.

Choose a compressor for many projects: Unless you only need a generator for a compressor, consider getting a more powerful one that will allow for future appliance use or simultaneous running of devices.

A generator can make any compressor project accessible from all locations. Its portability and ease of use will allow you to complete projects, whether for hobbies and crafts, home improvement use, or larger contractor needs.

How do I maintain and service my air compressor? There are 18 steps to properly maintaining and servicing your air compressor, at different points in time:

I have divided the recommended maintenance activities into daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly subsections for your convenience. There are also guidelines for what you should do before even starting your air compressor for the first time. I hope that you will find that this guide helps you towards your quest to get the most out of your air compressor.

Before Operation

These are tasks that should be performed before you even start your air compressor for the first time. These steps help ensure safety.

Be Mindful Of Location

Your air compressor should always be located in an area that is well-ventilated, where it will not accumulate too much dust.

If you have a miter saw or other similar equipment in your shop, it is ideal that your air compressor is located on a different side of the shop.

You will also want to ensure that the compressor is located in an area where adequate airflow will be maintained. For this reason, you will see that most owner’s manuals recommend at least 2 feet of free space around and above the air compressor.

Check The Safety Valve

The safety valve is responsible for keeping the tank of the air compressor from overpressurizing and possibly rupturing or even exploding.

Before even starting your air compressor, make sure that the safety valve on the air compressor is functional, as is stated in the user manual for this air compressor.

To check the safety valve, pull the ring that will typically be located near the pressure gauge(s). Check the owner’s manual for your specific model for instructions.

Be sure to replace the safety valve if it gets stuck or does not operate smoothly.

Ensure Proper Voltage

According to this site, most homeowner-sized small compressors are designed to run on a single 110V outlet while larger compressors offer a choice between 110 to 460 Voltage.

Your air compressor should have its own designated circuit within your home or shop.

If you are using an extension cord, make sure that it is a 3-wire extension cord and is not longer than 50 feet.

Daily Maintenance Activities/Proactive Measures

Here you will find guidance on a variety of maintenance activities you should perform each time after you use your air compressor.

Each time you shut down your air compressor for the day you should:

Check the oil level at the sight glass

If your air compressor uses oil

Drain the moisture from the tank

Ensure that the pressure switch unloader valve is working

Make sure there are no loose nuts, bolts, and screws

Prevent the unit from overheating

Store the power cord & air hose properly

Tighten The Cylinder Head

Below you will find more detailed information on how to keep your air compressor running smoothly from day-to-day.

How To Check The Oil Level In Your Air Compressor

There are many air compressors that use oil in order to regulate operating temperatures and reduce wear. If you happen to own an air compressor requiring oil, you are encouraged to check the oil level after each use.

To check the oil level in your air compressor:

Look for the oil-level sight glass or unscrew the cap to access the dipstick

The oil level should at least ½ of the way to slightly above halfway in the oil-level sight glass or on the dipstick

If it appears that it is time for an oil change in your air compressor:

You can find 100% Full Synthetic Air Compressor Oil here.

Replace the oil in accordance with the instructions in the owner’s manual for your air compressor

How To Drain Moisture From Your Air Compressor

Routine use of the air compressor leads to a build-up of moisture within the tank. Moisture in an air compressor comes from water vapor in the air that cools and is condensed as it moves through the system.

You may notice your air compressor accumulating the most moisture on hot and humid days.

If you do not drain the moisture from your air compressor regularly, then the components of the compressor, including the tank and attached tools, will be subject to damage from rusting and corrosion, as is stated in this owner’s manual.

You do not necessarily have to drain the tank daily, but we recommend making it part of your daily routine to the extent that it becomes second nature. This is especially relevant if you use your air compressor periodically.

To drain the moisture from your air compressor tank:

Locate the drain plug, typically found at the underside of the air compressor tank

Place some kind of a plastic pan or similar device underneath the drain to collect moisture.

In some cases, the drain plug may be difficult to reach

Use pliers as necessary to open the plug

Open the drain plug

Make sure you fully tighten the drain plug when you are finished so that the air compressor does not lose any compressed air the next time you try to use it

How To Ensure That The Pressure Switch Unloader Valve Is Working

The pressure switch valve is responsible for regulating the cut-in and cut-out pressure of your air compressor. The cut-in pressure is the pressure setpoint at which the machine will turn on, while the cut-out pressure is the predetermined setpoint at which the machine will shut off.

The pressure switch helps maintain the pressure you receive from the compressor and keeps the compressor from getting damaged from running too hard.

The cut-in/cut-out pressures are set by the manufacturer. The owner’s manual should tell you what the lower and upper pressure setpoints are. For example, the owner’s manual for this California Air Tools Ultra Quiet & Air Free Compressor shows that the cut-out pressure is 120-125 psi and the cut-in pressures between 90-95 psi.

This means that when you first turn on the air compressor, it keeps running until the pressure gauge shows the cut-out pressure. The machine should not turn on again until the cut-in pressure is reached.

Be sure to routinely inspect the system by making sure that the machine is turning on and off at the selected pressure setpoints. Your machine should not constantly be turning on and off. This puts you at risk of burning your air compressor motor.

If an air compressor is turning on and off, the culprit may be the pressure settings, the pressure switch itself, or an air leak in the system.

Make Sure There Are No Loose Nuts, Bolts and Screws

A loosened nut, bolt and screw is an easy fix as long as you are able to catch it before it leads to more trouble.

Before starting your air compressor, make sure that all the nuts, bolts and screws have been tightened very well. This is especially important before your first use or after you have swapped out parts to make a repair.

Keep your ears open to unusual noises or vibrations while you are operating. Sometimes the issue is as simple as a bolt that needs to be tightened a few turns.

Prevent The Unit From Overheating

Air compressors will typically have some kind of a thermal overload protector, as is described in detail in this owner’s manual.

The purpose of the thermal overload protector is to automatically shut the machine off if it becomes too hot.

If the thermal overload protector shuts your air compressor off, follow these instructions straight from the manual:

Physically set the ON/OFF switch to the OFF position

Even if the compressor has already automatically shut down

Unplug the unit

Allow the motor to cool

Then plug the power cord back in

Turn the compressor back ON

Ensure that thermal overload doesn’t occur by placing your air compressor in a location where it will not overheat, as discussed in the opening subsection of this article.

You can also decrease the odds of this occurring by placing your air compressor within a shop where the interior temperature is regulated.

How To Properly Store Power Cords & Air Hoses

If you don’t store the power cord properly, it can become subject to nicks and stretches that will eventually render it useless. There is no reason for your power cords and air hoses to become parts of your air compressor that you have to replace frequently.

First, disconnect the power cord and air hose at both ends. Then you will:

Take the end of the cord/hose in hand and let it hang over your hand in such a fashion that it forms a small coil.

Then quickly reel the rest of the cord into the coil,

make sure to leave a little bit of the cord length out of the coil at the end

The extra cord length at the end of the coil will then be wrapped around the center of the loop leaving 6” or so of extra cord length unwrapped

The 6” or so unwrapped cord length will then be pulled through the upper portion of the coil

You should be able to store the power cord and air hose on a hook near the compressor

This procedure is made much clearer in this video. Other methods for wrapping your air hoses and extension cords are also discussed in the video.

You may have heard of other methods for wrapping cords that have proven successful. Regardless of which specific method is used, it ideally should be performed after each use of the air compressor.

Weekly Maintenance Activities

Make Sure The Components Are Clean

You should perform a general cleaning of the air compressor at least once a week to prevent dust and grime from clogging critical components of the air compressor.

When you do clean your air compressor, it is important that you use:

Either a soft brush such as a utility scrub or a wet cloth such as this microfiber towel

If you are using any solvent other than water, you are encouraged to use a biodegradable cleaner such as Dr. Bronner’s Sal Suds

Monthly Maintenance Activities

These activities need not be performed every time you use your air compressor. You should be performing the actions in this section at least once a month.

Check The Air Intake Filter

The air filter on your air compressor is responsible for reducing the noise and preventing particulates from entering the air compressor.

The air compressor can become damaged if particulates are allowed to enter the air compressor.

Eventually, the air filter will become clogged with dust, and start becoming less effective. The air compressor must be checked and cleaned every now and then, potentially monthly or even more often, depending upon use.

Typically, you can remedy the situation by simply cleaning the air filter with a brush or vacuum. If the filter is clogged, the most viable solution may be to get a new air filter.

Tighten The Cylinder Head Of The Air Compressor

The bolts on the cylinder head of the air compressor need to be checked and retightened at least once a month, or every time the compressor is serviced.

These bolts become loose due to the normal vibration of the machine. Tightening the bolts on the cylinder head requires the operator to follow the procedures that should be outlined

in the owner’s manual for your specific air compressor.

Instruction manuals such as the one for this air compressor will include steps on which order to follow when tightening the bolts, and the magnitude of the torque number and rotational degrees should be achieved.

Failure to adjust the bolts on the cylinder head to the proper tension can cause debris and solvents to make their way into the cylinder bore, among other potential issues.

Use a torque wrench such as the epauto ½” drive click torque wrench to adjust the bolts in the order that is recommended by the manufacturer in the owner’s manual. You will also need to perform these procedures if you need to replace a broken cylinder head.

How To Check for a Leak in Your Air Compressor- With Soapy Water

A convenient way to check for small leaks involves pouring a little bit of soapy water on the area that you think may be leaking air.

Pour or spray the soapy water on the area of interest while the compressor is running. If bubbles start to form, then you will know that there is a leak coming from the area.

13. Check Belt Tension(Reciprocating Air Compressor)

If you own a reciprocating air compressor, such as the Quincy QT-54, then your monthly maintenance activities will include checking the tension of the belt and ensuring proper pulley/sheave alignment.

If the belt tension is off, even by just a little bit, you will run into a number of issues, according to the owner’s manual:

Motor Overloading

Excessive Vibration

Premature Belt & Bearing Failure

When you are performing your monthly inspection of the motor pulley and compressor sheave assemblies, look for nicks or burrs.

Other things to be on the lookout for:

Make sure every component is securely fastened

Make sure that the Compressor Sheath is aligned with the Motor/Engine Pulley

Then measure the belt tension in accordance with the instructions in the owner’s manual for your reciprocating air compressor.

How To Replace The Belt On Your Air Compressor

If you find the belt to be a bit worn during your monthly inspection of the belt components, you will be able to replace the belt with little effort.

Air compressor belts are not universally-sized, so you will need to look up the specific part number to get a belt that fits your air compressor.

Once you know the part number from the owner’s manual, you will find a wide array of options available online, as is the case with this belt that fits many models of air compressors across quite a few different brands.

Replacing the belt is as simple as this:

Unplug the compressor from the wall

Drain all the air out of the compressor

You may need to remove a top cover or belt guard to access the belt

To remove the belt, rotate the flywheel around

When you install a new belt, place the belt around the flywheel first and then position it over the motor pulley

These instructions are generic instructions pulled from a video on how to replace the belt on a specific make and model of air compressor.

You may be able to find similar videos online, including instructions on how to replace the belt on the air compressor you have. You should also be able to find instructions from the manufacturer of your air compressor. Check the owner’s manual before proceeding.

14. Remove Moisture Or Oil From The Air Supply

Air compressors are quite versatile as they are able to supply pressurized air to a variety of attachments and pneumatic tools such as nail guns and paint sprayers.

Unfortunately, pneumatic tools do not usually respond very well to excessive amounts of moisture present in the lines of air compressors.

Excessive moisture in air compressors can even lead to damage and premature failure of pneumatic tools, according to Hydraulics & Pneumatic Magazine.

Moisture is of particular concern if you are using a paint gun with your air compressor. Excessive moisture can find its way into the lines of your air compressor and may ultimately find its way into the paint and contaminate the paint.

Methods For Removing Moisture From The Air Lines

First off, there are a couple of risk factors that will contribute to excessive moisture in the lines of your air compressor:

Operating in humid conditions

Operating for long periods of time, causing the air in the lines to become hotter

The type of compressor you are using

Separator And Desiccant System

Air compressor dryers come in handy, particularly if you are using a piston-driven air compressor. Affordable options include the Edge Industrial Desiccant Dryer and the T-H-B CO Industrial In-Line Particulate Filter.

For added assurance, you can find a dryer and air filter combo, such as the Campbell Hausfeld Air Cleaner, Air Dryer.

The desiccant dryer is installed at a point within the air compressor lines, typically on a wall next to the compressor itself, as is seen in this video.

Servicing Your Air Compressor Yearly

These actions may need to be performed at least once a year or so.

15. Formulate A Troubleshooting Checklist

It is important to have a troubleshooting checklist for your air compressor so that you can take care of the real problem and not spend money on parts that you don’t actually need.

You can get a good idea of the repairs you may need to perform by viewing the owner’s manual for your air compressor, which should have sections on both maintenance and troubleshooting.

As an example, this owner’s manual by DeWalt features a detailed troubleshooting guide showing the most common malfunctions, their causes, and the corrective actions that must be performed.

According to the guide, there are many common causes of air leaks:

Fittings not being tightened all the way

A defective air tank

Leaking seals

A defective safety valve

Holes in the air hose

To ensure that you will cover all bases when you are troubleshooting, take a good look at the troubleshooting guide and make yourself a checklist of each possible cause.

Once you have inspected a component and determined that it is not causing the problem, you

can scratch it off your list and move onto the next potential cause.

16. Replacing The Regulator

The regulator of the air compressor is the control valve responsible for maintaining the desired pressure. The regulator is the plastic knob located at the manifold of the compressor, by the pressure gauge(s).

Eventually, the parts of the regulator will become worn down, necessitating repair. Repairing the regulator of the air compressor is a straightforward task that does not require a technician.

Signs that your regulator needs to be repaired include:

The leaking of air

Failure of the compressor to adequately adjust the pressure

You can find regulator repair kits such as this one online. Regulator repair kits are not universally-compatible, so check to see that the parts match with your model before purchasing. 

Repair kits will typically have the parts of the regulator that need to be replaced most often, such as the:

O-rings

Disk at the bottom of the regulator

Regulator Cap

Spring underneath the cap

Stem underneath the cap

The regulator should not need to be replaced all too frequently, but if you run your air compressor enough, you will eventually have to replace the regulator.

17. Replacing The Check Valve

To either replace or clean the check valve follow these instructions:

Release the air pressure from the tank

Unplug the air compressor

Remove the hose to access the check valve

Use a socket wrench to unscrew the check valve

A properly functioning check valve has a valve disc that moves freely within the check valve

The spring should also be able to hold the disc in the upper, closed position

The check valve may not be broken. You can clean the check valve using a paint and varnish remover such as this one

Apply sealant to the check valve and reinstall the check valve

Instructions on which size and type of check valve you need to replace a broken one should be included within the owner’s manual for your air compressor. You can find replacement valves such as the Hromee Air Compressor Check Valve Replacement Kit online.

18. Proper Storage

Before storing the air compressor for an extended period of time, such as several months at a time, clean all dust and debris from the air compressor.

You are encouraged to use an air blow gun attachment to clean the air compressor, as is specified here. In the alternative, you may use a soft brush or wet microfiber cloth.

Then remove the pressure from the tank by pulling the pressure relief valve. Remove all moisture from the tank by turning the drain valve.

How can you clean your air compressor? You should clean your air compressor while the power is off with a clean rag and something to soak up excess fluid. When draining the tank, leave room for large puddles of water.

The list starts there, but don’t worry. Read on, and you will have a step by step breakdown of how to clean and maintain your air compressor.

Cleaning Your Air Compressor

When in operation, your air compressor is battling some significant spots of dirt and grime. These will build up and could lead to critical malfunctions in the compressor. Cleaning and maintaining the compressor is essential to being able to take on those big jobs. The main things to look for when cleaning are:

Oil spots – If there are oil spots on the floor, find out the source and clean it straight away. Oil leaks on an air compressor mean a loss of compression inside the engine. A lack of compression means that the engine is close to failure. Use a clean rag and solvent to remove the excess oil.

Filters – The filters on an air compressor are some of the most essential parts of the machine. They allow air in and exhaust out. This flow keeps the air that is produced clean and free from debris. A clogged filter will cause the engine to overheat and fail.

Belts – Another essential part of the machine is the belt. A belt drives the large wheel, which produces air in the compressor. If there are binding agents on the wheel, it could become stuck and cease to function. Take a wire brush, or toothbrush, and clean around the central hub of the compressor.

Steps to Clean The Compressor

Unplug

Wipe

Vent

Filters

Hoses

1.Unplug

Turn the power off. If left on, it can begin to cycle and snag a piece of clothing or hair. Also, while working with water, pay extra attention to electricity. Soap or detergent added to a washer  

can be an additional conductor for electricity.

2. Wipe

Take a rag and wipe down the exterior of the machine. Pay special attention to areas around the controls and intake/outtake vents.

3. Vent

You should vent the excess water and air stored in the tank. There are knobs for each that are at or near the controls and bottom of the tank.

4. Filters

Remove the intake and outtake filter and brush out particles with a toothbrush. If any large pieces of dirt or wood get inside they could block the flow. A blockage will cause engine stalling and potentially failure.

5. Hoses

The rubber hose that attaches to the tool on an air compressor should be wiped down with a rag. If there are dry rotted spots present, the hose should be changed out. A blowout while in operation is dangerous. Take dry rot seriously.

Air Compressor Maintenance Tips

Like any other piece of electronic machinery, an air compressor has a set of guidelines to follow if you want to keep it up and running. The essential items to check are:

Read the Manual

Drain Moisture

Clean Vents

Tighten Up

Safety System

Check Fluids

Change Element

Heat Exchangers

Hoses

1. Read the Manual

When it comes to understanding how your air compressor works, the best place to go is the owner’s manual. It can give you many interesting facts you didn’t know like:

When to service the compressor – The guidelines for when to service the compressor are usually featured in the manual. Regular maintenance prevents major repairs and keeps the machine operating at a high level.

What oil to use – Like most smaller engines, it has a specific type of oil that it needs. Using the correct oil will keep the engine clean, and regular changes will extend the life of the compressor.

What size belts to buy – The motor on the compressor turns a wheel that creates air inside the chamber. This air is used to power the tools via a pneumatic hose. Reading the manual will show you what size and length hose to buy in case of failure.

How to purchase replacement parts – Depending on the manufacturer, it could be a difficult task to find the parts you need. Inside the manual, there will be parts numbers and retailers that will offer their parts.

2. Drain Moisture

On the underside of most air compressor tanks is a tiny valve switch. This switch helps drain the moisture from the container that is created when air is created. Cleaning the tank is a three-part process. It consists of:

Power Off – Make sure that the power is turned off on the machine. Any power that is running to the device could potentially shock the user when they attempt to drain the moisture.

Release Pressure – Wearing safety goggles, pull the tiny ring that releases the excess air. The glasses will keep particles from flying into your eyes.

Find the Valve – Now that the power is off and the stored up air is released, you can toggle the moisture valve. Depending on how long it has been since the last maintenance, the water could be dirty and full of particulate.

3. Clean the Vents

The air that is stored and compressed has to come from somewhere. That’s where the intake vent comes in. Clearing debris and particles from the valve will keep the tank nice and clean. On the flip side, your machine could have an exhaust valve. Over time build up could lead to clogging and eventual failure.

4. Tighten Up

When the motor on the compressor is running, there will be vibration. After usage, the nuts and bolts that hold the machine together will loosen. Take a wrench and tighten those bolts and nuts that have come loose.

5. Safety System

Specific models of air compressors come with a safety system that will keep the motor from failing. When the oil reaches a certain level or the filters become too clogged, and the engine burns itself out, the system will kick in.

6. Check Fluids

Like most machines, an air compressor has to have gas and oil to work. Before operation, the levels on all the fluids should be checked. If there is water or particles in the gas or oil, it could have a dangerous malfunction.

7. Change Element

Inside each motor on a compressor is a separator element. This element protects the machine from using too much oil or gas. A good rule of thumb is to change the separator every 900 to 1000 hours.

8. Heat Exchangers

Heat exchangers are pieces on the machine that are used to vent away heat. They can become filled with debris and cause the device to overheat. Overheating any gas-powered engine isn’t a good idea. The excess heat could crack the block and destroy the engine.

9. Hoses

Each compressor will come with a hose that attaches to the tool. These hoses should be checked for holes and dry rot. If hoses malfunction, there could be dangerous debris flying across your workspace.

Maintenance Schedules for Your Air Compressor

Any machine that has moving parts has a maintenance routine. The best results are often achieved by using the owner’s manual. Inside the manual, there will be specific directions that are thought to increase the performance of your air compressor. The main types of maintaining your air compressor are:

Preventative

Corrective

Daily

Weekly

90 Day

1.Preventive

Preventive maintenance is done while the machine is still in operation. This is done to keep the engine running and prevent catastrophic breakdown. Main things to do when doing preventive maintenance are:

Schedule times for maintenance-If you have an air compressor related business you should set aside hours to maintain the machine. The number of hours on the engine will determine if you need more or less maintenance. For the average homeowner, preventive maintenance should be done three times a year.

Make maintenance after the usage part of the job– Don’t stop on a job until the air compressor has been maintained and is ready for the next job. If you are a business owner, make the maintenance an employee task after they are done with the machine.

Don’t maintain the machine to fail– If you always mess around on the inside of the engine, something is going to fail. The moving and replacing of new parts could be even worse for the compressor than no maintenance. Abide by the schedule, and these problems won’t pop up as much.

Prepare the machine for the changing seasons– Depending on your location, you could need to prepare the compressor for the elements. The warmer, dryer climates can be hard on belts and hoses. The lack of moisture in the air makes them fail much faster than in a temperate climate.

Take the machine in for professional preventive maintenance- If you are lucky enough to have an air compressor that has a maintenance package, you should take advantage. When the company is geared towards the preservation of its product, the life of the compressor is extended. In some instances, it can be restored to factory originality.

Keep a few spare parts on hand- A good rule of thumb is to have two of every replacement part. When you run your own company, not being able to source a part could mean loss of time and reputation. The extra parts may eat into your bottom line at first but will prove worth the money as time goes by.

Bring in a maintenance man to work with your crew- A certified maintainer of machines can be hired by the company to teach your workers how to service the machines. While they won’t be able to perform certified maintenance, their knowledge of how it works can give them workarounds until maintenance can be achieved.

Keeping a maintenance log is an excellent idea- If you follow a record of what has been serviced and when you maintain it, you will be able to track what needs work and when. A log also shows the manufacturer that you have been doing the proper maintenance. If the machine does fail, it could mean refunds or discounts towards the next machine you buy.

Keep books and manuals available- You never know when it will malfunction, or you need to see a part number. Inside the manual will be contact information for the

manufacturer as well. Anything that breaks down will have a solution or a place to start, inside the service and owner’s manuals.

Install a top to bottom plan for your business- When it comes to a company centered around machinery, everyone in the company should commit to its maintenance.

2.Corrective

Another type of maintenance is corrective. Corrective maintenance is done when a technician does preventive procedures and finds a problem. Usually, there is a company procedure for when this happens. If you are self-employed or a homeowner, your corrective procedure could be seen during regular repairs. There are several benefits to corrective maintenance; they are:

Longer life of the machine – The corrective maintenance will scout out problems before they occur. This leads to a longer and more productive life for the air compressor. Longer and more stable life for the machine means years of durable service for you.

Safer – Doing corrective maintenance is more reliable for you and your employees. Finding the flaws and snuffing them out keeps the potential for harm to a minimum.

Fewer Service Interruptions – You can get more done if you are proactive about the job. Corrective maintenance is a proactive step that means less downtime in the future.

Production Optimization – Staying on top of problems also means that you are producing at your highest rate possible. More production means jobs are finished faster and cheaper.

3.Daily

There are a few things that need to be checked every time. These are the things that make the machine function. Any of these things could fail and stop production. They are:

Check the oil level – Without oil, the engine will seize and become a useless hunk of metal. The oil makes the internal parts of the engine movable and protects them against the high operating temperature.

Drain the tank – The moisture that is created when the compressor creates air must be drained from the air tank. On most models, there is a valve on the underside that can release it. Depending on the number of hours run, there could be up to a gallon of water inside.

Tighten the bolts – The vibrations from the engine will loosen bolts over time. It is a good idea to check all bolts each day. A loose bolt could cause a catastrophic failure.

Cut the power – When not in use, cut the power to the air compressor. This is a safety precaution, but keep in mind that when doing any maintenance, the machine should be unplugged or shut down.

4.Weekly

Weekly maintenance should be performed. These are the critical tasks that you should perform on the last day of the workweek. They allow the machine to function at its highest level with no breakdowns or stoppages. Weekly maintenance should consist of:

Cleaning – Dust and dirt stick to the air tank during use. When cleaning, take a rag and remove all dust from the moving parts. Pay special attention to the filters and the hoses.  

Tighten belts – The belt on the compressor will loosen over time. You should make it a part of your weekly maintenance routine. A slack belt means that the machine isn’t functioning at its highest output. The wheel is much harder to turn, which taxes the engine.

Check tools – Depending on the job you are undertaking it might be a good idea to check out the devices you attach to the machine. If the tools have serious malfunctions, then they could harm the air compressor.

5.90 Day

The 90 Day maintenance is a bit deeper than the others. Every 90 days, there must be repairs that require removing pieces of the machine. The essential parts of 90-day maintenance are:

Oil change – The engine and crankcase oil must be changed every 90 days. Pay attention that you use the oil that is suggested in the owners or service manual. Every little bit helps when it comes to maintenance, and keeping the oil changed is the most critical job.

Air leaks – Throughout ownership, your air compressor will spring air leaks. Constant vibration not only loosens bolts from the engine but will loosen bindings in the tank. These tiny air leaks can be found using soapy water on the outside of the tank.

Gaskets – Just like the air filters, the gaskets on the machine will need to be checked and changed. Replacing some of the gaskets will require significant removal of parts. Indeed, take the compressor to a trained professional.

Best Air Compressors

The market for air compressors is quite large, with several different types and uses. When buying, you should keep your intended usage at the forefront of your mind. You can’t run a tire shop with a cordless 12V inflator/deflator, and having an 80-gallon tank could be a bit much for inflating your floats down at the beach.

Ryobi P731 – Ryobi makes a tremendous portable inflator/deflator. It is an 18V portable system that is perfect for your sporting needs. The built-in caddy for inflation tools and deflation hose make it look slick. The controls on the top are easy to navigate and vibrant.

Powermate Vx – The Powermate Vx is an 80-gallon behemoth. These air compressors are meant for heavy-duty work on industrial equipment or large trucks. It is made of cast iron and has a limited warranty. The coolest thing about it is the wired cage that protects the wheel. Not

only does it keep random debris from flying in the wheels, but it also cools the system down faster. The improved cooling system functions better and with few problems.

GX CS3 – The versatility of the GX is what makes it such a good machine. It can be used for small and large jobs alike. The 12V battery can be charged in the home or with a cigarette lighter. This unit is oil and water-free, which means that there are no fluids to check or maintain. The dual fans located on the back panel create the GX’s power and cool it off.

Stealth Air Compressor – When it comes to quiet, this unit takes the cake. It is a three-gallon, and it is super quiet. The induction motor creates one horsepower and is oil-free. The stealth is more of a middle of the road jobs machine. That means it can be used for the small jobs, but might not be powerful enough for your most invasive tasks.

Metabo HPT – Metabo is the new branding of the Hitachi company. The HPT is a six-gallon machine that weighs 35 pounds and creates enough force to run a nail gun. This machine paired with a nail gun akes it perfect for the home construction or deck building.

Makita Big Bore – The larger bore inside the machine creates more pressure at a more leisurely rate. Meaning pressure is created faster. While it does use oil, the Makita has a pump that runs much cooler than its competitors. Another bonus is the larger size that allows for higher air intake and production.

California Air Tools – This unit is an excellent portable that is very quiet. Since it operates at such a low decibel threshold, there is increased longevity and optimal operation. It is on the smaller side at only 0.6 HP, and it generates a max pressure of 230lbs.

Best Air Compressor Tools

When it comes to using your air compressor for business, there are a few tools that must belong in your arsenal. The best tools for your air compressor are:

Nailgun

Owning an air-powered nail gun will take your project to the next level. There are three types of nail guns, one for each kind of building or construction.

Brad Nailer – A Brad nailer is used for smaller jobs like trim work. The nails that are used are slender and very tough. They are hard to drive in with a regular hammer, so having a Brad nailer could mean a world of difference.

Roofing Nailer – For shingles, you need a flat nail that has a larger than average head. A Roofing nailer is an essential tool for the homebuilder. The time saved as opposed to a hammer and nails will be well worth the investment.

Framing Nailer – A Framing nailer is used to make the walls and joists of a house. It nails 2 x 4’s and will work in almost any construction environment.

Air Wrench

If you are a mechanic with an air compressor, you need a set of air wrenches. These tools can be used for tires and are much quicker than the lug wrench.

Impact Wrench – An impact wrench is used to work in small spaces, but provide an incredible amount of power. They can crack seals and release bolts that have been seized.

Ratchet Wrench – We’ve all seen the regular ratchet wrench. It is designed for even smaller spaces than the Impact wrench. It is more of a finesse wrench as opposed to the Impact.

Drill

The remarkable thing about having a drill that is run by an air compressor is that it can run for extended periods. The longer you run it, the more it cools off—the opposite of what an electric drill does. The kicker is that it is much safer to operate in an environment that could be filled with flammable and combustible material.

Sander

Whether you are working on an old car or making a crib for your newborn, having an air sander will make the job a breeze. It works by shifting a flat piece on its head to create the back and forth motion. Attaching a particular grain of sandpaper allows you to do more jobs. The size of the sander should depend on the task you are undertaking. You will pay more for more coverage area, be warned.

Stapler

Another great tool to have at the ready is an air stapler. These staplers are used for hanging fabric or plastic in large areas. They boast a higher speed rate than some nail guns, but the staples they use are much smaller. Like the nail gun, there are specially sized staples that could require additional attachments.

Hammer

When you think of hammers, you think of nails, but that isn’t always the case. There are versions of the roto hammer that are used more like a chisel. They chip away at a surface, like a jackhammer, to reveal or repair what is underneath. Sculptors use an air compressor and roto hammer to do the intricate design work that is found in high-end art galleries.

SOURCES

How long can you leave a compressor running? Depending on the size and type of compressor, air compressors can be left running anywhere from a few hours to 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Knowing your compressor and its needs and limitations is vital in keeping this invaluable equipment operating correctly.

Types of Air Compressors

There are two primary types of air compressors used in the home or on construction sites. These compressors fall under the category of Positive Displacement Compressors. This means that the compressor stores outside air in its cavity and compresses it to create air pressure.

Dynamic or Centrifugal Compressors also exist, but they used in chemical plants or large manufacturers. Their design and size are vastly different, which enables them to run in ways standard compressors do not.

Reciprocating Compressors

Reciprocating air compressors range in size and power. Small 1-gallon air compressors often have a ½ horsepower motor that can reach a maximum of 100 PSI. However, reciprocating compressors can be as large as 30 horsepower and reach over 100 gallons.

A reciprocating compressor is the type of compressor you typically find on smaller construction sites, small shops, or in someone’s garage. These compressors operate similarly to your car, as they have at least one piston inside of a cylinder that compresses or displaces the air inside to create pressure. Reciprocating compressors are offered in single-stage or multi-stage motors that determine the pressures they can reach.

Because of this design, these compressors have many moving parts that generally need to be lubricated with oil. These moving parts create friction, and with it, heat. Furthermore, the more parts move, the more wear you will begin to experience.

Because of the heat and wear, reciprocating compressors cannot be run constantly. They require time to cool down. This aspect is known as a “Duty Cycle’ of the equipment, and that information can be found in the manual. It’s important to know what sort of work you will be doing with your compressor, so you know what duty cycle to look for.

Rotary Screw Compressors

Rotary screw compressors are the other common air compressor type, but these are generally larger, more industrial-sized pieces of equipment. They are often found in large shops or construction sites that have a higher demand for constant air pressure. Designed for continuous use, these compressors can run 24 hours a day, seven days a week, with much less fear of failures or mechanical issues.

This type of compressor uses spinning rotors instead of pistons. The rotors turn in opposite directions,

trapping pockets of air between them and forcing it into the chamber.

Some rotary screw compressors do require oil, but others do not. Their lower friction design means less heat gets produced, which also goes a long way in eliminating wear and tear on the mechanical components.

You Can, but Should You?

Tools are expensive, and compressors are certainly no exception. But the only thing worse than a tool needing to be replaced is a tool needing to be replaced while in the middle of a project or job. Lost tools, money, and time is a terrible combination.

With that in mind, it should not come as a shock that manufacturers and professionals suggest shutting off machinery when not in use. However, many people still suggest that there’s no problem leaving your compressor running overnight, or even for days at a time, when not in use. Let’s look at some reasons why this may not be the safest option.

1. Excessive Motor Wear

When you push a compressor too far or too long, the internal parts begin to wear. Moving parts and seals are put under much more strain when they are not allowed to rest, and this will shorten the life of your equipment.

2. Part Failure

Besides the damage associated with wear, you have the risk of different parts of your compressor system failing completely. A constantly running compressor means that there is continuous pressure in the tank. Should a seal or hose fail at any point in the night, your compressor will run nonstop to try and fill an open tank.

If your compressor runs all night without stopping because of a hose split, the risk of a catastrophic motor failure goes up significantly. It’s not difficult to choose which is easier or cheaper to replace.

3. Energy Waste

Most compressors do not take a significant amount of energy to run. However, it is still wasted money that you could be spending on materials or new tools. If you were to add in the risk of a part failure and a constantly running compressor, the cost increases.

4. Moisture and Rust Buildup

A lot of part-time hobbyists and tinkerers don’t realize that when air is pulled into a compressor, moisture comes in with it. Unfortunately, some only find out when the bottom of their compressor rusts out, or water begins to spit out of their tools.

This is why compressors either have a release valve in their bottom or a built-in drainage system. If your system is constantly running or pressurized, that moisture has no way to escape.

5. Stored Energy

Most compressors built these days have safety valves and fail-safe devices built into them. These are specially designed to release the air pressure safely if the air pressure gets too high. The reason for this is because a large metal tank that is over-pressurized is essentially a bomb looking to blow.

Keep Them Running, Keep Them Safe

Whether you are painting, blowing away sawdust from your power tools, or running several pneumatic

tools at a time on a construction site, compressors are a valuable investment. Just like any other investment, it will need some attention to keep giving back. Here are some tips for keeping your investment safe and in top condition for years to come.

Shut off your compressor when not in use.

Empty the pressure after use. This will take the stress off your hoses and seals.

Drain the moisture from your compressor regularly. If you live in a humid environment, you should release the air and moisture from the valve after every use to cut down on rust buildup.

If your compressor uses oil, check and oil it regularly.

Change the oil. Your manufacturer will include information about how many hours of use between oil changes. Since it is often difficult to keep track of such things without a built-in counter, it is suggested to estimate and set a regular oil change schedule. Think of it as you would your vehicle: 3 months or 3000 miles.

Replace or clean air filters, as suggested.

If you notice a leak, find the source and fix it. Often, leaks come from thread seals that can just be tightened up. Other times, seals can go bad and only start with a small leak.

Even if there are no signs of leaks, check your fitting connections once a year.

Conclusion

Your compressor may be a fine piece of craftsmanship built to withstand the rigors of constant use. It may be built more for a few hours of use, followed by a bit of a rest. Regardless of the type you own, it is safer and more economical to shut it down when not in use. Be sure to check the duty rating of your model and always follow manufacturer guidelines.

How hot should an air compressor get? Air compressors should operate at temperatures of between 50 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature range does not put the air compressor at risk of overheating or freezing at ambient conditions. Most air compressors begin to overheat when temperatures exceed 105 degrees Fahrenheit.

It is essential to understand the optimal temperature range of your air compressor to prevent it from overheating and extend its life. In addition, understand the causes of air compressor overheating and how to avoid them.

Why Air Compressor Gets Too Hot

Some of the most common causes of air compressor overheating include suction or discharge pressure malfunction. Other causes of air compressor overheating may be related to the wear and tear of the machine.

Common causes of air compressor overheating include:

Reduced suction pressure

Increasing discharge pressure

Poor compressor ventilation

Insufficient cooling space

Worn out or blocked components

Faulty thermal valve

Diminished oil quality

Low Suction Pressure

When suction pressure reduces, the compression ratio increases. This causes your air compressor to overheat.

A common cause of low suction pressure is leaking refrigerant. Other causes of low suction pressure include:

A sudden drop in pressure

Faulty metering systems

Poorly-fitted internal components

Blocked strainers

The pressure meter device helps you gauge pressure levels in the compressor. Therefore, a faulty pressure meter could lead to inaccurate readings on the actual suction pressure.

High Discharge Pressure

Increasing discharge pressure can cause the air compressor to overheat. High discharge pressure may be caused by:

Obstruction of condensing air in the machine

A poorly fitted discharge line

Faulty condenser fan

Condensing coils being dirty

Small-sized condenser

Overcharging of refrigerant

Some air compressors come with a built-in device for monitoring discharge. However, the device  

can become faulty and fail to alert when the air compressor starts overheating.

Poor Compressor Ventilation

Air compressors need proper ventilation to function efficiently and at optimal temperatures. Poor compressor ventilation can cause the machine to overheat.

A common cause of poor compressor ventilation is blockage of the air compressor vents. However, insufficient cooling space can also cause the air compressor to overheat. Air compressors should be installed in a cool environment to prevent overheating. The machine can overheat if the temperature in the environment exceeds 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

As the air compressor heats up, moisture and condensation builds up inside the device. This affects internal components and reduces the pressure levels in the air compressor.

Worn Out or Blocked Components

Obstructions within the air compressor’s components will affect pressure levels in the air compressor. This causes the compressor to use twice as much energy to pump out the same amount of pressure.

Wear and tear of internal components can affect compressor performance. When components wear out, the air compressor generates excess heat as it tries to retain efficiency.

A faulty thermal valve can also lead to an increase in discharge temperature, which may cause the air compressor to overheat.

Diminished Oil Quality

Air compressors come with a special oil that cools and lubricates internal components. However, the oil loses its quality and hardens with time.

Low levels of air compressor oil can cause friction of internal components. Friction causes the air compressor to struggle to operate at optimal levels, which may cause overheating.

Overheating of the air compressor heats the oil, which lowers its viscosity and quality.

Signs Your Air Compressor Is Overheating

Air compressor overheating often goes unnoticed until one or two components become partially or completely damaged. Look for various signs if you suspect your air compressor is overheating.

Faulty Circuit Breaker

The main function of a circuit breaker is to cut down airflow inside the air compressor. This helps to protect the air compressor from damage and ensure it functions efficiently.

A circuit breaker that trips randomly could be a sign of overheating internal components. A faulty circuit breaker could affect pressure levels in the air compressor, which could lead to overheating.

Noise or Smell of Burning Oil

Grinding noise in your air compressor could be a sign of poor lubrication in the air compressor. The grinding of internal metal components in the air compressor could lead to overheating.

Excessive heat could lower levels of compressor oil, which could cause the air compressor to produce fumes that smell like burning oil.

Failure to Power Up

An air compressor with overheating problems may fail to start up. Overheating burns internal circuit wires that feed power to the compressor.

Overheating air compressors could either fail to power up altogether or take too long to reboot between usage cycles. The air compressor could also take longer to reach its full operating capacity.

An overheating air compressor could also stall during startups. It could cause the air compressor to stall before reaching full operation mode.

In some cases, the compressor may power up and shut down immediately. In general, overheating shortens the life of your air compressor.

How to Prevent Your Air Compressor from Overheating

An excellent way to prevent air compressor overheating is by eliminating the factors that could cause the machine to overheat. You could take several steps to prevent your air compressor from overheating.

Check and Improve Ventilation

Focus on the internal and external compressor ventilation. Check the vents on your air compressor and ensure they provide adequate ventilation for the machine to cool effectively.

Air compressors with worn out or incompatible vents could cause overheating. Consider replacing the vents if they are worn out or not compatible with the air compressor.

In addition, make sure the vents face away from walls or objects that may obstruct airflow.

An air compressor technician can help you choose vents that handle your air compressor’s workload. Apart from the vents, consider running your air compressor in a properly ventilated space.

A warm and stuffy room will cause your air compressor to overheat. Check your compressor reading regularly to ensure the unit is operating at an optimal temperature.

Monitor Compressor Oil and Inspect Filters

Check the compressor oil and ensure it is at the right level. While at it, check oil viscosity for consistency; make sure there are no signs of thinning or watery oil.

Compressor filters should be clean and not clogged with dirt. Clean dirty filters and replace old or worn-out ones.

Check ventilation and compressor ducts. Dirt and dust tend to accumulate around vents and ducts.

Clean the vents and ducts regularly to prevent obstruction of airflow. Check the ducts for signs of punctures or crimps.

Ducts are designed to promote airflow; obstructed air ducts could cause your machine to overheat.

Replace Old Compressor Parts

Check your compressor parts regularly to confirm they are in good condition. Compressor valves tend to wear out faster with repeated use.

Consider replacing faulty compressor parts to improve the efficiency of your machine. Contact a technician to evaluate your air compressor and check for signs of wear and tear.

If upgrading components is not an option, you may have to replace your old compressor with a more advanced one.

Air Density and Humidity

Consider operating your air compressor in a cool and less humid environment. This prevents moist air from condensing inside your machine. The buildup of moisture inside the air compressor could affect its efficiency, which could lead to overheating.

The most common causes of air compressor overheating are poor ventilation and faulty internal components. Consider servicing your air compressor regularly to prevent overheating.

How can you increase the airflow, known as cfm, on your compressor? Five easy and effective ways to increase CFM on an air compressor are:

1. Reducing pressure
2. Changing your outlet size
3. Hooking up two air compressors
4. Using an auxiliary storage tank
5. Improving the efficiency of your system by servicing your compressor. 

Read on to get a better understanding of how the airflow on your compressor works and the five ways you can increase your output airflow. 

How to Increase CFM on an Air Compressor

If you need to increase airflow output from your air compressor for a specific tool or task, there are a few options that you may consider: 

1, Reduce Outlet Pressure on your Air Compressor

Reducing the output pressure of your air compressor will help to increase the output airflow. Once your air compressor’s tank is pressurized, you have a certain volume of air that you can use until the compressor kicks back on again. If your tank pressure is much higher than your output pressure, you will increase the total volume of air that will leave your tank on a single charge. 

For the same power rating on the same air compressor, by adjusting the pressure, you should get more airflow. Power is equal to the pressure multiplied by the volume over time – where volume over time is the cfm. If the power stays the same, then: 

Old pressure x cfm = New pressure x cfm

This is the same assumption we used earlier for calculating for a new airflow at a different pressure than listed. If you had originally set the pressure to 125 and got 5 cfm, but wanted to see how much more airflow you would get at 90 psi, then: 

125 psi x 5 cfm = 90 psi x New Cfm 

New Cfm = (125 x 5) ÷ 90 = 6.94 cfm

The air compressor will run for a longer time when the output pressure is lower, as the tool will use a lower volume of air at a slower rate. At higher pressures, the air has a higher density, therefore, the air compressor has to work harder to compress the same volume of air, which will take longer. At this higher pressure, your tools will require a higher volume of air, emptying the tank faster than at a lower pressure. 

You will be able to use your tools for a longer total period of time at a lower pressure than at a higher pressure because the air compressor will have an easier time keeping up with the demand for air. 

The actual amount of airflow that your air compressor will produce may not actually be equal to the amount you calculated. This is because the outlet airflow is actually related to the difference in pressures between the output pressure and the tank pressure, rather than how much power the compressor needs to compress the air. 

As you use the air in the tank, the pressure will decrease, even as the compressor works to fill it. The airflow will be highest when the pressures have the biggest difference, which is when the tank has been fully charged. The airflow will be at the lowest when the tank pressure is approaching the outlet pressure. 

To explain it in a more mathematically correct way, we can use Bernoulli’s equation. 

v2=c A (2 (p1-p2)g ρ)

V₂ = the outlet velocity

A = the area of the outlet

C = the coefficient of discharge, for a free opening of a tube assume 0.6

p₁= The initial pressure, psi

p₂= The final pressure, psi

ρ= The density of air, lbm/ft^3

G = the gravitational constant, 32.2 lbm*ft/lbf*s^2

You will need to look up the density of air at the temperature you’re using the compressed air in and the pressure you’re using the air at. You can find some charts online, such as on the Engineering Toolbox. It’s important to note, as well, that psi stands for pounds-force per square inch but density is typically noted in pounds-mass per cubic foot, so you’ll need to convert between inches and feet. You’ll also need to convert seconds in the gravitational constant to minutes. 

If you have a ⅜” outlet, which is 0.11 in², you can calculate the outlet velocity and therefore the cfm at your starting conditions. If you start with a tank pressure of 125 psi and are using the air at 90 psi:

cfm = 0.6 0.11 in21 ft2144in260 sec/min ((2 (125 lbfin2-90 lbfin2)144 in21ft2 32.2 ft s2)0.534lbft3)

cfm = 21.44 cfm

Knowing this equation, you can now calculate the starting airflow at your original pressures, or even an intermittent airflow at a lower pressure. Note that this equation is theoretical, meaning that it doesn’t count for losses in your system. Losses of efficiency can occur due to friction in the hose, friction in the fittings, or variations in the loss coefficient, or losses in your tool. 

The coefficient of discharge might be much lower depending on the type of tool you use. The density of the air you use will also change with pressures and temperatures in your system.  

Let’s run another example assuming your tank pressure is approaching the outlet pressure, 95 psi to 90 psi: 

cfm = 0.6 0.11 in21 ft2144in260 sec/min ((2 (95 lbfin2-90 lbfin2)144 in21ft2 32.2 ft s2)0.534lbft3)

cfm = 8.10 cfm

As you can see, the airflow will decrease as the tank pressure decreases. 

2. Change your Outlet Size

Some tools need a minimum pressure to operate which would prevent you from decreasing the outlet pressure enough to increase the airflow. Increasing the outlet hose size on your air compressor can increase the outlet airflow, by increasing the cross-sectional area where the air flows. The additional area lowers the amount of friction the air experiences as it flows through the length of the hose. The friction in the hose decreases the energy in the air which will slow it down. 

As more airflow leaves your tank, your tank will empty faster. While the initial airflow will be higher, your run time will be shorter, decreasing the airflow and the pressure during use. 

The hose size was one of the factors in the Bernoulli equation that we used in the previous method. We can demonstrate how the airflow will increase by plugging in different sizes of hose into the equation. Calculate the cross-sectional area of your hose using the area of a circle (or by looking it up online): 

A=πr2

If you have a hose that is ½” in diameter, then the area of your hose is about 0.19 square inches, but if you have an inch ¾” tube, then the area is about .44 square inches. The interior diameter of your hose may not actually equal the nominal dimension of your tube. Check the specifications on the tube to find the actual inside diameter or use calipers to measure. 

We can show the difference between ½” and ¾” tube, using the same pressures as before, you can see how the area changes the airflow: 

cfm = 0.6 0.19 in21 ft2144in260 sec/min ((2 (125 lbfin2-90 lbfin2)144 in21ft2 32.2 ft s2)0.534lbft3)

cfm = 37.0 cfm

cfm = 0.6 0.44 in21 ft2144in260 sec/min ((2 (125 lbfin2-90 lbfin2)144 in21ft2 32.2 ft s2)0.534lbft3)

cfm = 85.75 cfm

Again, these equations are theoretical, so the actual airflow value will be much lower due to losses in the system. However, these results of calculating the airflow show that increasing the size of your outlet hose can increase the airflow through your tools. 

3, Hook up Two Air Compressors in Parallel 

Another option to increase the airflow at your tools is to hook up to air compressors in parallel. By connecting two air compressors that produce the same airflow rate at the same pressure, you can double the output airflow. The airflows are directly additive. While this doesn’t exactly increase the airflow on your air compressor, it achieves the goal of increasing the airflow at your tool. 

To connect to air compressors together, you will need a few additional fittings and an extra length of hose. Connect the discharge hoses together through the straight ends of the tee, and the outlet hose to the side connection of the tee. If you can find a wye fitting, your system will have lower losses, making it more efficient. 

If each air compressor can produce 5 cfm of airflow, then adding them together may provide 10 cfm of airflow, theoretically. However, again, the actual airflow produced through the tool might be a bit lower due to losses in the system. 

4. Use an Auxiliary Storage Tank

Another method to help produce more airflow through your air compressor expands upon the idea in our first method, reducing the pressure on your regulator. 

As we explained in the previous examples, reducing the outlet pressure allows you to produce more airflow for a longer period of time. The same idea applies to use of an auxiliary storage tank. Since the volume of the storage tank is larger than using your compressor alone, then the pressure will drop more slowly over time while you use your tools. 

Remember that cfm stands for cubic feet per minute. If you use one cfm of air through your tool, then you will use a cubic foot of air in one minute. Since one cubic foot of air equals about 7.48 gallons, if you maintained one cfm of use and the air compressor never kicked on to refill the tank, you could use all the air in a 20 gallon tank in just a few minutes.

Of course, you won’t be able to sustain your target cfm as the pressure drops, and over time your air compressor will likely start to cycle to increase pressure back into your tank. This will allow you to continue using your tools for much longer. 

5. Improve the Efficiency of Your Air Compressor

In the previous ways to increase the airflow on your air compressor, we mentioned several times that losses and inefficiencies in your system could reduce the airflow you get out of your tools. The easiest way to boost airflow in your system is to make sure that all the air that your compressor produces actually ends up coming out of your tool. 

Quincy Compressors recommends a few ways to reduce losses in the output airflow of your air compressor: 

1. Fix leaks in the system. Air leaks can often be heard through hissing sounds, but some smaller leaks may not be audible. Leaks often occur around fittings, such as the hose connections, pressure regulators, joints, and disconnects. Make sure all gaskets are in good condition and replace if the rubber hardens, wears down, or breaks down. 

Use plumbers tape on fittings to help reduce air leaks and tighten down all threaded fittings properly, without over-torquing. You can fill a spray bottle with soapy water and spray carefully around fittings to detect leaks that aren’t audible while in use. Shut the compressor down to disconnect any fittings that need to be further tightened. 

2. Reduce the total length of hose from the tank to your tool. As air moves the hose, it will encounter friction against the walls of the hose. The longer the hose, the more friction and therefore, more energy it will lose. Additionally, if there are any kinks, crimps, or fittings, those will also create friction losses in the system. 

3. Select low pressure drop hoses. Low pressure drop hoses will have smooth interior walls. There are many pressure drop charts available online that show what the pressure loss in a specific diameter hose might be. Measure your length of hose and note the diameter. 

For example, a ½” hose might lose 10 psi of pressure in just 50 feet of hose. Unlike reducing the pressure setting on your regulator, the pressure loss in the hose will actually reduce the speed of the air that comes out of the hose. 

4. Reduce the number of fittings between your compressor and tools. Fittings add a lot of pressure loss to your system. Fittings might include valves, couplers, plugs, tees, and reducers. Every time the air hits a fitting, it loses pressure, velocity, and therefore, total airflow. 

5. Don’t forget auxiliary equipment: If you use an auxiliary storage tank, second compressor, or inlet hose, check to make sure that you’ve reduced any losses in those components as well. 

Ways to Decrease CFM on your Air Compressor

Some pneumatic tools are very sensitive and may need a lower airflow to operate properly without damaging the tool. With prolonged use at higher pressures or airflows greater than what they’re rated for, you may wear out the tool more quickly. The best way to prevent damage to tools with lower airflow needs is to lower the airflow on your air compressor. 

Lowering the airflow on your air compressor works in reverse of many suggestions we highlighted to increase your airflow. Here’s a summary:

1. Increase the outlet pressure: While you don’t want to increase the output pressure of your air compressor too much above the recommended pressure of your tool, you can increase the pressure on your outlet. When the outlet pressure and the tank pressure have a smaller difference, the output airflow will be smaller. 
2. Decrease the hose size: Attaching a smaller hose on your air compressor will add pressure drop to your air compressor. This increased pressure drop will reduce how much airflow is available at the outlet. Additionally, you could increase the total length of the hose, add fittings into the system, or otherwise add additional pressure. 
3. Decouple secondary air compressors or tanks: If you don’t have a second air compressor or auxilliary tank, you can’t reduce your airflow by removing one. However, if you were desperate to reduce the airflow at your tool but had no other means, you could hook up a second tool or a bleed on the line to reduce airflow. While this method wastes compressed air that your air compressor worked hard to compress, it’s an effective way to decrease airflow. 

How To Calculate CFM on an Air Compressor

CFM is the abbreviation for cubic feet per minute, a unit to describe the volumetric flow rate of air for air compressors. 

Safety first: safety glasses unplug the compressor.
Visually inspect the compressor and surrounding area for obstructions to the mechanical parts of the compressor, such as pulleys, belts, pump, and the motor.

Before You Can Repair Your Breaker concern, let us save you some time by asking a few qualifying questions. 

This is the first time plugging in this compressor, and the breaker tripped while running?
a) my compressor is new
b) my compressor is not new

my new air compressor trips breaker

The most common reason I find circuit breakers tripping with new compressors is too much load from combined amperage draw from multiple devices and tools on one circuit.

Sometimes on new compressors, the easiest way to cure this concern would be to move the compressor to a dedicated circuit large enough to handle the load. Moving the compressor may also identify a week breaker. If the breaker trips on one 15 amp breaker but not the other, The tripped one may be old and worn.
I would recommend replacing that worn breaker and move the compressor back to its original location.

STILL, TRIPPING BREAKER?

Your air compressor is tripping the breaker due to untenable current demands that exceed the breaker’s capacity. Several factors can cause your compressor to pull too much power, but we will not waste time testing the compressor. If we determine it is the compressor, It’s new; bring it back.

Before resetting the breaker, find the amp rating on the compressor, be sure that the breaker is large enough to handle all the appliances and tools on that circuit. Take this time to unplug all other devices or tools that may be causing a draw on that circuit.
Inspect the outlet that the compressor is now using. Is it lose, or has any signs of overheating? Replace the outlet or repair before going on to the next step.

How to test an unloader valve on an air compressor

To see if a failed unloader valve is the root of the problem, take the following steps:

• Unplug your air compressor
• Open the tank drain and let all pressurized air escape out of the tank
• Plug the air compressor back in
• Turn the air compressor switch to “ON,” restarting your air compressor. If the compressor starts, let the system fill.
• if the compressor still will not start inspect the pump.
• Once the compressor turns off, bleed some air until the motor starts. Replace the valve if the breaker trips while attempting to turn on with a full tank. The cause was the valve not releasing pressure from the cylinder head.

Inspecting an air compressors pump for mechanical concerns

To see if a failed pump is the root of the problem, take the following steps:

• unplug the compressor
• remove the cover plate or belt guard
• turn the pump by hand it should spin freely

If the pump is locked or hard to turn, It time to replace the pump

If the pump turns freely its time to test the electrical circuit.

Disclaimer: Self-diagnosing air compressor concerns may not be a simple problem. If you are not familiar with electric motors or circuitry, then you may need to take your air compressor into a shop to have a load test performed and diagnosed. Performing electrical tests is hazardous and should only be performed by a professional.

Measuring the amps that your air compressor produces while in use can be done one of three ways at the breaker box, exposing the wires at the compressor or using a splitter between the outlet and the cord of the compressor.

Click the link below to skip you down the page that best fits your situation:

My compressor is:

1. 110volt AC
2. 220volt single-phase or 220volt three-phase

How to Measure amperage on an air compressor. 110-volt A/C

Note: The compressor should be almost full of air to represent a heavier load on the motor on start and run.

plugging in a splitter into the outlet then plugging the compressor’s cord into the splitter is much like using an extension cord is the easiest way to test amperage.

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1. measuring the amperage at the breaker box,

Safety glasses! Open the breaker box and turn off the main breaker,

reset the breaker to the compressor and then shut it off, remove the panel to expose the wires and breakers 

place amp meter around the load wire, let some air out of the compressor so when you flip the breaker, the compressor turns on. 

Watch the meter at start-up and while running.

Was the amperage on start-up and running lower than that of the manufacturer specifications?

2.measuring the amperage draw with an outlet splitter or inline wattage meter. If You have this splitter, it makes life a whole lot simpler. Unplug the air compressor, plug the splitter into the wall plug in the compressor to the splitter. Clip your meter on the splitter. You are ready to start the air compressor. measure the amps at start-up and while running 

Was the amperage on start-up and running lower than that of the manufacturer specifications?

3.Measuring the amperage draw on the air compressor is my last option. The only reason I sometimes measure amperage this way is I suspect the capacitor, and a quick visual inspection may reveal it needs replacing. All air compressors are different, and the manufacturer uses as little wire as possible, making it sometimes challenging to expose and separate wires. Once you have gotten a location to clamp the meter. Start the compressor and watch the amps at start-up and while running.

 Was the amperage on start-up and running lower than that of the manufacturer specifications?

How to measure amperage on an air compressor. 220-volt A/C

Safety first! Unplug or turn off the breaker, test to make sure power is off. Inspect all wire connections on the compressor. Removing cover plates to expose the wires will provide a place to use your amp meter.  

I always recommend measuring 220 Amperage at the Breaker box. All connections, including the ones at the breaker, need an inspection.

Note: The compressor should be almost full of air to represent a heavier load on the motor on start and run.

 220-volt has one common or neutral lead and two load wires measuring 110 volts. It is also possible it will have a ground wire. Place the amp meter around one of the two load wires. Start the compressor and let it run until it shuts off. 

Note the amperage. Move your meter to the second load wire.

Bleed air from the system until the compressor starts and repeat the procedure. 

If you are dealing with a new compressor and producing more amps than the manufacturer’s specifications, return it to the store. Brandnew compressor failure is more common than you would think.

Was the amperage on start-up and running lower than that of the manufacturer specifications?

(yes)If you Verified that the amperage draw is lower than the factory specifications and that of the breaker. The tripped breaker may be old and worn. Is it Possible to move the compressor to another circuit with the same amperage rating? Cycle the compressor on that circuit if there is no problem with that breaker. I would recommend replacing the worn breaker.

(no) A faulty capacitor is the most common cause for compressor tripping a breaker. Some compressors have two capacitors, and some have only one. 

How to test an air compressor capacitor. with video

Safety First: Wear safety glasses disconnect power, and make sure power is not present. 

Remove the cover to the capacitors. One capacitor will be the start capacitor. The other will be the run capacitor. Ratings and percentages are printed on the side of all capacitors. If it is not legible, there will be no way to test the capacitor. I usually replace capacitors that look distorted in any way, and capacitors are cheap enough that the cost is negligible compared to labor or a comeback.

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Caution: A Capacitor can store a deadly D/C discharge!

With an isolated Scew driver, touch the top leads together on the capacitors. Discharging them eliminates the chance for shock.

Now that it is safe to handle the capacitors, remove them and look at the side of the capacitor; take note of the micro-farad range. The format will read something like(540-630µf) or (64µf + – 6%) but not those exact numbers, and This micro-farad range is the tolerance the motor needs to start and run under random loads generated by the compressor. In the first example (540-630µf), when testing the capacitors, the micro-farad range should fall between those readings. In the second example (64µf + – 6%), you must first do some math. 64×0.06=3.84 round up to the next highest round number equals 4.0 64 minus four equals 60 and 64 plus 4 equals 68 

in this example, the capacitors range is between 60µf and 68µf.

  Set your meter to this symbol -)|- or the µf. Connect the leads and measure the micro-farads. If the reading falls between the variance, the capacitor is good. In this example, the reading reads 61.2 µf the capacitor is within tolerance. And we would move on to the next step or the next capacitor. Replace the capacitor if it is out of range. 

Is your air compressor the cause of your breaker tripping#weakbreaker

If you plugged the compressor into another outlet and the breaker did not trip, or you measured the amperage draw during use and the beakers ratings are above that witch the compressor is drawing, chances are the breaker is weak or there is a loose wire in that circuit. inspect the circuit for loose wires and replace the weak breaker.

Flash forward to today’s quiet direct drive motor two-stage oil-less air compressor, and it is my goto on the go. Most of the tools I have, including an air impact, can be run from a small compressor for a short period. The lightweight all-in-one carrying frame is mobile.
Holding a conversation with it running next to you is not a problem, even with my hearing.

I have a single-stage oil-lubricated compressor at home. The added initial cost will pay off with trouble-free reliability, With an oil-less compressor, the cost would be approximately 20% less, and the decibels would be too loud to store it in my attached garage.

What are some pros and cons of oil-free air compressors?

5 Pros of an oil-less air compressor

1. lower maintenance to the pump.
2. fewer parts equal lower price.
3. smaller footprint
4. less energy consumption
5. weight is less than that of equal capacity

5 cons of an oil-less air compressor

1. The noise level of this type of compressor is louder at higher pressures.
2. dirty environments are catastrophic on oil-less compressors.
3. the duty cycle on these compressors is normally much lower.r
4. oil-less air compressors run hotter.
5. oil-less air compressors do not last as long.

How Does an oil-less Air Compressor Work?

Both types of compressors function much like your car’s engine,
Only without a spark plug and an exhaust stroke. The piston is pulled down, drawing in the fresh air, then is driven up, increasing the pressure. The main difference is the oil-less compressor uses permanently sealed bearings and synthetic gel lubricants.
The oil-less system doesn’t have an oil reservoir Eliminating oils from passing the pistons’ rings and into the compressed air system.

Are Oil-less Air Compressors Better?

To answer this question, let us take a look at a comparison between two compressors on the market manufactured by the same company. Here you see a chart with a side-by-side comparison.

Please take note that the side-by-side comparison is not answering the question entirely.

At first glance of these two similar performing compressors the one hundred dollar cost of the oil lubricated compressor sticks out, the oil-less is only 2 decibels louder, one-half CFM, at 90 psi less than the competitor and lacks only point three horse power.

The biggest concern I have About larger oil-less compressors is Duty-Cycle, I have not seen Duty cycle ratings on any paperwork or online in quite some time. “Duty-cycle” is the amount of time the compressor needs to rest and cool compared to the amount of time it runs. an example of this is a 100% duty cycle rated compressor that will not need to shut off to cool it can stay cool and run non-stop, A 75% duty-cycle rated compressor can run for 45 minutes but then needs to cool off for 15 minutes before restarting. in the case of these two compressors, the oil-less has to work much harder when it turns on at 95 psi to get back to 200 psi. both compressors hold about the same volume of air. but the oil-lubricated compressor only has to reach 175 psi, which will equate to shorter run times and a longer life span.

Why Go With an Oil-Free Compressor?

We’ve talked about all of the benefits. Oil-less air compressors are cheaper than their oil-using counterparts. Because the oil-less compressor is smaller and lighter, it is more cost-effective to manufacture. The energy costs are also reduced because there is no need to collect and store oil-laden condensate. both types of compressors have their place, and I own both

Five expert tips to prevent rust in an air compressor tank.

Every time you use your air compressor, condensation will collect in the bottom of the tank. Here are five steps you can take to care for that resulting condensation:

1. Drain, drain, drain it.
2. Leave the drain open between uses.
3. Use a purge valve/automatic tank drain and aftercooler.
4. Use a water trap and filter regulator.
5. Use an air dryer.

In this article, we’ll go deeper into each of these suggestions, when to use them, and discuss why water collects in the bottom of your air compressor.

Drain Your Air Compressor After Each Use

There are a couple of reasons you want to do this:

There’s the obvious one. It helps prevent rust from developing inside your compressor tank.

The less apparent reason is that it allows you to ensure that your compressor’s gauges correctly measure the total capacity of your tank. I recently was helping My brother with addition to his house, I set his house compressor up with an automatic drain system years ago, but we didn’t want to run a hose around the house. I grabbed a small portable compressor from his truck and totted it around back. Commenting on how much heavier it was than my newer one. After plugging it in, I glanced at the gauges and seen zero psi. I grabbed a 25-foot hose, plugged it in, and the compressor shut off, 2.5-gallon tank zero to 125 psi. in what had to be less than two minutes. That was quick, much faster than my newer compressor.

I jump up on the ladder with a nail gun in hand, running pressure blocks between the second-floor joist. One block in the compressor comes on shuts off. “That’s Fast,” I think to myself,

the second block, Six more Nails, Compressor clicks on, Something is Wrong.

Maybe the pressure switch is cycling too Quick? Jump down and head over to the compressor. The gauge reads 125 psi. I unplug the Airhose pull the pressure relief switch. Ten to fifteen seconds later, The compressor kicks on. The pressure switch was working correctly. The gauge reads 85, Explaining why the compressor was so heavy.

When you drain your compressor’s tank entirely, you essentially take it back to its factory settings. Meaning your pressure gauge will give you an accurate reading and won’t be rendered ineffective or inefficient because of water sitting in the bottom of your tank.

I quickly called my brother over, gave him, The your a dumb ass look, That only brother can truly appreciate as I opened the drain valve, letting him watch about 2 gallons of brown water shoot out on his plastic-covered sub-floor.

4 Easy Steps You Can Take to Drain Your Air Compressor Tank

The nice thing about this is. It is easy.

Put on your safety glasses. This way, if there is any debris in your tank, you won’t need to worry about it getting in your eyes.

Make sure your air compressor’s power is unplugged and/or turned off.

Pull the ring on the tank’s safety valve to reduce the tank’s air pressure to a level below 10 PSI (pounds per square inch). I find Using a rag to deflect the air and debris from blowing directly on me is much cleaner and safer.

Open the drain valve, located at the bottom of the tank. If you are draining a portable compressor, the drain valve may be located a little way up from the bottom. Tilt the tank positioning the valve to be located at the lowest point, allowing the water to completely drain from the tank.

Leave the Drain Open Between Each Use

There are many pros and cons to this one.

Some people prefer to leave the drain open the entire time between each use, so they know the water has completely drained out of the tank. 

Others, though, prefer to close the drain once they’re sure the tank is dry. They prefer this because they’re concerned that leaving the drain open allows dirt, debris, and creepy crawly things to enter the tank. This could result in damage to any of your air tools. 

Either way, you go. You definitely want to make sure that the drain is closed before you use your air compressor the next time. 

I highly recommend adding a purge valve to all stationary air systems.

Use a Purge Valve/Automatic Tank Drain and Aftercooler

This is a tool that is placed at the drain valve location and is often used as part of larger, commercial air compressors, But due to competitive pricing, decreases have been economically feasible to install at home.

The purpose of this tool is to purge the water from the system by utilizing a timer, Every time the compressor is activated. This makes manual tank draining unnecessary since the tank is automatically drained for a few seconds. Every time the pressure switch closes to activate the compressor motor.

Another beneficial addition for large commercial air compressors is an aftercooler.

An aftercooler will significantly reduce the amount of water vapor that can enter your compressor, to begin with. It can do this because it traps the warm air, cools it, and then allows the air into the compressor tank.

Air Cooled Aftercooler 10 HP – Retails* for $219. 

*Note: Price is as of the date of the writing of this article and may not be representative of current prices.

 How much water you get depends on the relative humidity where you live.

Even on a “low humidity day,” Louisiana is going to experience much more condensation than Arizona would.

When the moisture-laden air is compressed in your air compressor, the hydrogen molecules condense from a vapor to a liquid resulting in the phenomenon we know as condensation. Now, instead of only having air in your compressor, you also have water.

Granted, it’s a small amount of water but left to its own devices, and it will result in rusting the inside of your compressor. This can lead to dangerous outcomes up to and including your compressor exploding when its structural integrity is no longer intact.

To know whether or not there is rust inside your compressor tank, check to see if any rust-colored water comes out when you drain your compressor.

Should I Have My Air Compressor’s tank Cleaned?

You may be wondering if you should have someone clean the inside of your air compressor or try to clean it yourself in case there’s rust in there. There are some who are willing to risk cleaning the inside of an air compressor tank, but it’s not recommended. Almost any process used to remove rust from the inside of your compressor tank will cause additional corrosion beyond whatever damage already exists. 

If there’s rust inside of your air compressor’s tank, chances are the structural integrity has already been compromised to some degree, But short of x-raying the tank, there is no way to physically see what is going on structurally. I have looked inside many tanks with a borescope and have never seen a crack or pinhole. Upon inspection, I have found pinholes in the bottom of the tank and along welds. If that’s the case, it’s best to replace the tank. Do not weld a compressor tank!

Yes, air compressors can blow up. Air compressor explosions are most commonly caused by substantial corrosion of the compressor tank. Excessive condensation leads to corrosion, and you can avoid this outcome by monitoring and servicing the compressor and its auxiliary components.

Air compressors are essential components of manufacturing plants, auto repair shops, and residential workshops. Air-driven power tools are a vital part of most industrial manufacturing. It is an indispensable tool of the industrial world and helpful addition to a homeowner’s tool collection. 

Air compressors do not pose the same risks to your safety as natural gas or propane, but without proper maintenance and monitoring, compressor explosions can cause massive damage. With appropriate safety measures and adequate training, you can safely use air compressors without fearing a spontaneous explosion.

Are Residental air compressors less dangerous?

Working with air compressors at home can be more deadly than larger commercial units. Regular inspections and maintenance are not performed on air compressors in use at home, and they are often stored in the same area that you are working in, like a garage or a shed. This makes residential accidents more frequent and hazardous.  

The following list identifies common reasons for compressor explosions.

• Tank Corrosion
• Faulty Pressure Relief Valve
• Faulty Pressure Shut Off Switch
• Nearby equipment igniting or exploding
• Improperly installed tanks and valves
• Insufficient compressor lubrication
• Lack of cooling
• Manufacturing defect

Tank Corrosion

Corrosion will weaken the compressor tank. If your tank becomes corroded, it cannot sustain the high pressures produced by the compressor. When the compressor runs, condensation begins to form on the inside of the tank.

If you do not drain the tank regularly, the condensation buildup in the tank will lead to corrosion. Experts recommend draining the tank after each use and releasing the air pressure from the tools attached to the compressor. 

The thickness of the tank’s metal determines whether it is capable of sustaining high pressure. Corrosion weakens the tank’s metal and reduces its structural integrity. If rust caused by corrosion decreases the tank’s thickness, the tank is unable to withstand the high-pressure demands of the compressor.

Nearby Equipment Ignition or Explosion

Another situation that may lead to a compressor explosion is overheated nearby equipment. Air compressors should not be installed or used in a confined space with poor ventilation.

If you have a furnace in your shop or business, you should not install a compressor near it in case the furnace fails or ruptures. Compressors must be stored and used in a cool, dry location. Intense heat can weaken the compressor tank and lead to a catastrophic accident—a small explosion from one piece of equipment setting off a larger one by rupturing the compressor’s tank.

Improper Installation

The manufacturers of air compressors include specific guidelines for the safe use of their products. If you purchase a compressor for your personal use, always follow the maker’s specs for maximum psi levels and maintenance routines. Over-clocking a compressor’s pressure switch will result in higher pressure and longer use times but may also result in death.

Professionals install large compressors for commercial uses. Installers are required to follow strict protocols when installing their compressors, and any mistakes they make can potentially cause a rupture or explosion. 

Local authorities are responsible for inspecting these installations, but it’s a good idea to double-check the work performed by a professional installer.

Make sure the compressor tank’s drain valves are correctly installed, the compressor’s psi output does not exceed the limits of the tools it’s attached to, and the machine’s oil capacity is at the maximum level.

Insufficient Lubrication

If your compressor is not correctly lubricated, it cannot operate at an optimal level. Lubrication prevents friction from occurring between moving parts.

An excessive amount of friction raises the part’s temperature and forces oil deposits into the valves. The heat increase can cause a component to fail and eventually lead to a rupture or explosion. Dried oil in the valves can heat up and ignite. 

This scenario will only occur if the compressor runs for an extended period without sufficient lubrication, but it’s a danger that you can easily avert by monitoring the machine’s oil level.

You can avoid any problems with lubrication by regularly checking the oil and replacing the oil when it becomes dark and less viscous.

Insufficient Cooling

You’re unlikely to have cooling problems with the small compressors you use in your workshop. However, large commercial machines rely on cooling systems to keep compressors functioning at a safe level. If a compressor is not adequately cooled, it can overheat and explode.

A cooling system for large compressors must be serviced and monitored regularly. Employers must provide a log that indicates when and how frequently maintenance should be performed on the system. 

Insurers often require employees to keep up-to-date logs. A company’s insurance rates can increase if proper records are not kept.

Manufacturing Defects

Compared to other potential risks associated with air compressors, manufacturing defects rarely occur. If you notice a valve or component from the compressor does not correctly fit, stop the installation and contact the manufacturer.

Engineers design the compressor’s components to withstand extreme pressure. Each piece of the machine has a threshold for wear and tear. If a part is too thin or incorrectly machined, the compressor cannot function at peak performance and may fail.

An air-flow blockage caused by a defective part may cause the compressor to overheat and possibly explode.

How to Prevent Air Compressors from Blowing Up

In order to avoid a catastrophic explosion, you can follow a few steps to ensure your compressor operates at a safe level.

• Drain the tank after each use.
• Check the oil and lubricant levels (Oil-free compressors use gel lubricants)
• Place the compressor in a ventilated area.
• Follow manufacturer guidelines concerning Max Pressure  
• Make sure all components are secure and undamaged

Drain the Tank

(This is the most common cause of tank failure)

After you finish a project with your air compressor, turn off the machine and drain the tank. Each compressor tank has a different location for the drain valve. If you fail to drain the tank, condensation can build up and corrode the inside of the tank.

You should also bleed the air out of the attached hoses. Turn the compressor off, and pull the trigger on the wand until you hear the air escape. Bleeding ensures the longevity of your hoses and attachments. If the hoses are stored under pressure, they can crack and break.

Check the Oil

Oil-free compressors do not require as much maintenance as oiled compressors. However, you should frequently monitor the lubrication of an oil-free machine. Oil-free machines use synthetic gel lubrication on some parts, and some manufacturers claim these machines are maintenance-free, but dirt may build up on the surface and cause premature wear. This is the leading reason oil-less compressors have a shorter life span.

When you use a compressor indoors, make sure the room is ventilated. Air compressors need a steady flow of air to operate effectively. 

You should also avoid blocking the machine’s air intake with nearby equipment or supplies. A dirty rag thrown over the compressor can cause it to overheat and malfunction.

Follow Manufacturer’s Guidelines

Always follow the exact manufacturer guidelines when you install and operate your air compressor. If your machine is not rated to handle pressures above 120 psi, do not try to push the compressor’s pressure above that level.

The machine’s tank can rupture if the pressure is too high. A ruptured tank can take off like a rocket and cause massive damage and injuries.

Check All Components For Damage

Check your valves, hoses, connections, and tank for any visible damage. If you notice a cracked hose or plugged valve, replace them. 

Closing Remarks

Air compressors are essential machines for manufacturers, auto shop painters, dentists, and hobbyists. It’s crucial to frequently service the compressor and monitor its performance if you want to avoid an accident.

Performing a brief series of safety checks and remembering to drain the tank after each use is all you have to do to ensure a safe, efficient air compressor. So, grab your compressor and supplies. Now you can finish the project you’ve been thinking about since last week.